1990s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Championship

There was a time when I couldn’t fathom owning a Royal Oak. Watches in the limelight aren’t typically what I gravitate towards, and the RO has seen its fair share of hype in recent years. Perceptions aside, I was recently able to try on a vintage 4100ST and it all finally clicked. Still, it would take a pretty special reference to get me into Gerald Genta’s magnum opus. Enter the 33mm Royal Oak Championship 56175TT.

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This watch was produced in limited quantities to celebrate Sir Nick Faldo’s back-to-back championships at the 1990 Masters and British Open. It was also the first Royal Oak made with tantalum — a lustrous blue-gray metal known for its exceptional hardness, weight, and corrosion resistance. With the importance of this watch in mind, AP decided to power it with an ultra-thin quartz movement. Yes, the AP caliber 2612 serves an important purpose by allowing for an incredibly thin 5.6mm case.

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The result is a watch that’s paradoxically weightless in appearance but heavier than a vintage Day-Date in hand. This is especially remarkable considering the inner links and bezel are made of stainless steel. Tempting as it may have been to go full tantalum, two-tone was the right choice. Instead of a flat appearance, the warm sheen of the stainless steel dances against the cool dull of the tantalum to create a dynamic play of light that perfectly compliments those famous facets and angles.

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If you can’t tell, I’m enamored with this piece. Rarely these days do sports watches become my fixation, but leave it to Genta to ignite my interest! When I came across this early example with the original skinny hands and unmarked crown still present, I knew I had to act. Finally, my Holy Trinity collection is complete.