Overview
The Patek Philippe Calatrava has a long history dating back to 1932 when the Stern brothers, fresh off their acquisition of the manufacture, unveiled a time-only dress watch that would go on to set the standard for all others that followed — the Calatrava reference 96. The name, of course, is a nod to the brand’s usage of the medieval Calatrava Cross, an emblem of the Spanish military’s Order of Calatrava. With its simple design, modest proportions, and many configurations, the timeless style of the Calatrava continues to endure nearly a full century later.
The reference 5026G offered here is part of an important series of Calatravas that helped transition the line into the modern era during the 1990s. These watches boast a curious blend of styles, merging a classically executed flat bezel case and a mid-century dial design with contemporary elements such as an off-center small seconds and an exhibition caseback. The latter provides a view of the Geneva-sealed automatic caliber 240 inside, the same micro-rotor movement used in the brand’s flagship ultra-thin perpetual calendars.
With an estimated production of only a few hundred examples per configuration between 1997 and 2002, the 5026 is a true rare bird. The white metal versions with applied Breguet numerals seem to be especially scarce, and desirable, as they incorporate two elements highly sought after by enthusiasts. Despite other offerings with similar features costing multiples more, these neo-vintage Calatravas remain largely under-the-radar and present a wonderful opportunity to own an important and distinctive piece from Patek’s storied dress watch history.
Specifications
Brand:
Patek Philippe
Model:
Calatrava
Reference:
5026G
Year:
1990s
Case Number:
1964900
Case Material:
White gold
Diameter:
33.5 mm
Lug Width:
19 mm
Thickness:
7.6 mm
Lug-to-Lug:
41.0 mm
Dial:
Black
Lume:
None
Crystal:
Sapphire
Movement:
Automatic
Caliber:
Patek Philippe 240/151
Bracelet/Strap:
Patek Philippe brown alligator strap with white gold tang buckle
Max Wrist Size:
Hand model has a wrist size of 6.2 in
Condition
Case: The white gold case is remarkably clean throughout and shows only light signs of wear, including faint hairlines on the bezel, one micro nick at 6 o'clock, and a couple tiny nicks on the on the inside edges of the lugs. The lugs are nice and strong, with superb definition between brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel remains flat and crisp at the edges. The brushed case sides are pristine with no notable imperfections. The caseback shows a couple light scratches, the most notable of which is at the 12 o'clock position. The backs of the lugs show light signs of strap removal. The case hallmarks remain crisp and legible.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The matte black dial is in pristine condition with no notable imperfections. The polished Breguet hands are fantastic with only faint signs of oxidation visible on the tip of the minute hand. Both front and rear sapphire crystals are squeaky clean and scratch-free.
Bracelet/Strap: Both the Patek Philippe alligator strap and Molequin saffiano strap are in excellent condition with only light signs of wear and plenty of life left to give. The Patek-signed white gold buckle shows a couple tiny scuffs, but remains clean overall. The signature and hallmarks are sharp and detailed.
Performance
Functions: All functions including the crown winding and time setting are working as expected.
Service History: Unknown.
