Overview
While the Royal Oak may be Audemars Piguet’s most iconic reference, it is the Quantième Perpétuel that is often overlooked and perhaps equally as important. In the midst of the Quartz Crisis, three senior watchmakers at AP secretly developed an ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar movement that would change the trajectory of the brand. Using the caliber 2120 as a base, the trio adapted a calendar module on top and successfully pitched the prototype to Managing Director Georges Golay in 1978. Over the next 15 years, AP would go on to produce over 7,000 perpetual calendars in over 200 variations, reviving their reputation as a watchmaker dedicated to highly complicated timepieces.
The reference 5548 (and later the 25548) was the first watch to be fitted with the groundbreaking caliber 2120/2800 and jumpstarted Audemars Piguet’s production of the Quantième Perpétuel. However, it was the second generation reference 25657 where AP really started to hit their stride. Marked by sunken sub-dials and a "Swiss Made" signature at the bottom of the dial, the 25657 was an important evolution that gave the model’s design more depth and eventually more breadth as the brand began experimenting with a variety of special dials including those with engine-turned and “Tuscan” treatments.
The example offered here is as classic as it gets for the 25657 series, offering a stepped yellow gold case and a clean white dial branded with Audemars Piguet’s flat font logo. Notably, it also has the modified construction that AP introduced during the latter half of the 1980s to improve ergonomics and moisture resistance. From the placement of sub-dials to the profile of the case, the proportions of this watch feel just right at every angle. Yes, the Royal Oak is the icon, but where that watch is industrial and at times cold, the Quantième Perpétuel beckons you with romance from the moment you put it on.
Specifications
Brand:
Audemars Piguet
Model:
Quantième Perpétuel
Reference:
25657BA
Year:
1980s
Case Number:
C82518
Case Material:
Yellow gold
Diameter:
36 mm
Lug Width:
20 mm
Thickness:
7.8 mm
Lug-to-Lug:
38.0 mm
Dial:
White
Lume:
None
Crystal:
Sapphire
Movement:
Automatic
Caliber:
AP 2120/2800
Bracelet/Strap:
Audemars Piguet black alligator strap (short length) with signed yellow gold tang buckle
Max Wrist Size:
Hand model has a wrist size of 6.2 in
Condition
Case: The yellow gold case shows light signs of wear including a few hairlines, faint scratches, and micro nicks, but the overall presentation is clean. The lugs are nice and thick with excellent definition at the edges. The brushed case sides remain nice with very little wear. The caseback shows a couple tiny scratches and a few micro marks near the caseback edge at 10 o'clock. The backs of the lugs show light signs of prior strap removal. The model, serial number, and hallmark engravings remain crisp and deep.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The white dial and polished hands are in pristine condition with no notable imperfections. The sapphire crystal is squeaky clean and scratch-free.
Bracelet/Strap: The Audemars Piguet black alligator strap is in mint condition with virtually no wear present. The ACM saffiano strap is lightly used with plenty of life left to give. The yellow gold Audemars Piguet tang buckle exhibits light wear in the form of hairlines and a couple tiny scratches. The AP signature remains legible and detailed.
Performance
Functions: All functions including the crown winding, time setting, and push buttons are working as expected.
Service History: Unknown.
